Day 4: Rawene to Waipoua River
Feb. 28th 2014
Distance cycled: 54 km
Total distance to date: 242 km
This morning I packed up camp and went to meet up with Margie, whom I'd met last week on the bus from Auckland. She and her friend Rob picked me up and we walked to her house overlooking the harbor for a lovely breakfast.
Margie was so sweet and had everything out on the table that I could possibly have wanted: fresh fruit, local honey, homemade jam, peanut butter, toast made from local bread, tea, milk, yogurt and muesli. I was just happy to be indoors and have good company (and a place to charge my phone)! We ate and enjoyed the fantastic view from her balcony:
Margie and Rob are also both super handy. I had a bag that needed sewing (an important bag, too: it clasps to my handlebars and has all my important stuff in there like money and passport and such). Margie busted out her sewing machine like a pro!
Within the span of minutes, my bag had a new branding (Johnstons of Scotland) and a new lease on life.
We posed for a picture, not that Margie could have been all that keen on standing next to a sweaty smelly cyclist, but she didn't complain.
She also gave me some produce to take with me and a garbage bag to protect my tent in case of rain (hasn't been a problem yet but is bound to be sooner or later!). Rob and I figured out the perfect way to cut the bag so it can double as a ground tarp for my tent. Perfect! I am so blessed to have met these people and gotten to spend the morning with them!
Shortly before noon, I finally hit the open road. A late start, but worth it.
Not too long after leaving town, I ran across the skateboarding Swiss guy from the day before, Robert. He'd spent the night in Kohukohu and taken the 11am ferry. We traveled together for a few kilometers, talking about this and that, until my next setback: 6km out of Rawene I discovered my back wheel was flat. Robert continued on while I dismounted, unloaded the bike, got out my patch kit, and set about repairing the flat. It was a very tiny, but very sharp, piece of metal that was my tube's undoing. Amazing how something so small and insignificant can bring you down! Like David and Goliath.
Once I was back on the bike, I felt like most of the day was gone and I hadn't made any progress - which was true. It was quarter to one and I had a huge hill in front of me. Things weren't exactly looking up. But then, 23km later, I came to Opokoni. What beautiful water! I stopped to take a photo.
As I was about to get moving again, I noticed there were some people about to climb back into the campervan parked 50m in front of me. One called to me: "you've sure made some progress!" And I realized that it was the retired Dutch couple from Lake Ngatu! It was so cool to see them again. We had a chat and then I continued into town for lunch and a quick dipping of my feet into the ocean.
After lunch I passed through the neighboring town of Omapere, after which came a steep climb out of town. I took a 1km detour at the sign that said Scenic View and wasn't disappointed.
A panoramic view of Hokianga Harbor:
As I left the scenic view and pressed on up the hill, Robert waved to me from a spot in the shade.
One more farming town and then it was on to Waipoua Forest. The cafe there was supposed to have great coffee but was unfortunately closed. I just can't get a break on these coffee breaks! I took a break anyway for a snack and a Coke since my guidebook warned it was my last chance before a 400m ascent into the forest. Oof, was it ever. Slow but steady. As I pedaled away I couldn't help but think of poor Robert, who would be walking up this hill with his skateboard. But ascent and all, I was glad to be heading into the forest as the sun was glaring above me and I'd been overheating all day.
At the top of the hill came Tane Mahuta, the largest living kauri tree in New Zealand. It was pretty majestic.
Takes your breath away, doesn't it?
These kauri trees are really something else. I can see why the Kiwis are proud of them. I got to bike through a bunch of them after leaving Tane Mahuta - and 9 of the 10kms were downhill! Best downhill ride ever. Curvy, not too steep, jungle on both sides. Simply amazing.
At the campsite (a real one this time), I found a nice place to pitch my tent, with great views.
The campsite had awesome hot showers, which felt like the most amazing thing after freedom camping the last few nights without access to proper bathing facilities. It also had a kitchen so I didn't have to cook on my makeshift stove. I was in the process of making more spicy peanut noodles when who should walk in the door but Robert. He had hitchhiked the last several kilometers since the big hill into the forest had majorly set him back time-wise and darkness was setting in. We sat and ate and chatted in the kitchen over green tea that he imported himself from Asia. In the course of conversation he listed several countries he's traveled through, all of them by skateboard: the Baltics, China, most of SE Asia, good portions of Europe, and now New Zealand. What a way to see the world! We agreed that our methods of travel are both great ways to tour. Not only do you go slower and take in more than you would in a motor vehicle, but you are also somewhat of an oddity, which makes people more likely to strike up a conversation with you. Win win.
So far, every bit of me likes cycle touring. My stomach is happy because it gets as much food as it wants - I am always hungry it seems! (Bad for my wallet though, ha! Everything costs so much here.) My legs seem to be enjoying the challenge and I like observing their growing strength. My mind is calm, almost meditative, and has time to think through things as I cycle. I get to meet new people every day, so my social needs are met. And there is tons of daily routine involved, which I seem to really crave. The only part of me that doesn't like cycle touring is the part of me that comes in contact with the saddle. Ouch! Hope that I toughen up a bit on that front. Maybe I should have sprung for a Brooks!
posted by Kyla @ 19:39
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